How To Remove a Bathroom Vanity Sink


What comes next looks long and complicated. But it is not. Replacing a bathroom vanity sink, anyone can do that. If you know how to remove a bathroom vanity sink and if you have the right tools. It is best to read our instructions completely first. Then the project loses its horror and you know immediately what material you need.

Before buying a new pool, you should measure the distance between the mounting screws in the wall. Getting a cymbal that is the same distance simplifies matters. Also, the faucet must match the cymbal. But it is best to get advice on this from a specialist retailer or in a good hardware store.

Don’t forget to protect the floor tiles

Before you can finally get started, you should cover the floor with cardboard, a blanket or painter’s fleece. This protects the tiles on the floor from damage as well as the new sink. A bucket and a mop are also provided. At least the siphon of the old basin contains water.

Then you close the two corner valves so that no more water can run into the basin. The corner valves are located under the sink. If there are no angle valves, the main tap of the apartment must be turned off. In this case, you should discuss this with the other residents in good time. Then let the water in the pipes drain off.

Then you unscrew the siphon and the drain pipe and dismantle the linkage between the drain and the mixer tap, if there is one. The remaining water from the siphon is poured into the bucket. Then it is checked whether the drain pipe is clean. Limescale can be removed with limescale cleaner, vinegar or a screwdriver. If you notice an unpleasant smell, plug the pipe with a rag.

The right tool is best

In the next step, the connecting pipes or hoses are loosened at the corner valves. They are fastened with so-called union nuts. It is best to use a suitable wrench. A so-called wrench or a pipe wrench will also work, but you risk damaging the nuts.

Now you can unfasten the faucet under the basin and remove the faucet. The hoses remain on the fitting. Then you take a kitchen knife or a carpet knife and loosen the silicone between the sink and the wall.

The mounting screws for the sink are mostly tight, and they have to be. It’s easier to loosen with a wrench than with pliers. You make sure that the pool doesn’t slip off prematurely and shatter into pieces. Even if you don’t need it anymore, picking up the shards is quite tedious.

Older pools can sit on brackets screwed into the wall and need to be lifted out. Newer specimens are carefully pulled off the hanger bolts.

This is how you get new holes in the tiles

You only have to unscrew the hanger bolts if you can no longer use them because they are too rusty or incorrectly positioned. In the latter case, two new holes must be drilled. The appropriate places are marked with a template made from cardboard. If the wall is tiled, tape the drilling points with masking tape. Then you switch off the hammer drill function of the drill and drill with a tile drill at low speed. In a wall that is only plastered, you simply drill with a masonry drill. Dowels are placed in the new holes and new hanger bolts are screwed in. Everything has to be really tight.

Now look again to see if there are still silicone residues on the wall; they are removed with a knife or a coarse sponge, possibly also with silicone remover. You just have to try it.

The fitting is best attached to the new pool before it is on the wall; this is easier to handle. Before assembly, the sealing disc and a washer are pulled over the hoses to protect the ceramic. Then you put the hoses through the hole provided in the sink, then the fastening screw. The fitting should not be turned completely tight, but adjusted exactly in the middle. If you buy a new faucet, it must be a low-pressure faucet if it is connected to an electric water heater.

Silicone or foam rubber band?

Now put a strip of sanitary silicone or a foam rubber band on the back of the sink. This evens out unevenness, removes tension and reduces the transmission of sound from the pool to the wall and possibly even to the neighboring room. The advantage of silicone is that you will need some of it later, so you have to get it anyway. The foam rubber has a certain strength and is easier to work with.

It is best to hire a helper for the actual fastening, but you can also do it yourself. The washbasin is pushed onto the screws and the nuts are initially tightened only hand-tight. So if you’re doing it alone, put the nuts within easy reach so you can grab them with one hand while the other hand holds the cymbal. Then you check the position with the spirit level and adjust it if necessary. Only then are the screws tightened with the spanner, always alternately a bit to the right and left, so that there are no tensions and the new washbasin is possibly damaged.

Then you connect the lines to the angle valves. They are fastened with the union nuts. It is essential to ensure that the seals are correctly seated, which is best replaced with new ones. If the hoses are metal pipes, they may have to be shortened with a hacksaw.

Drain pipe and siphon are reinstalled exactly as they were previously attached. If you get new ones, follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you reinstall the old ones, it makes sense to clean them thoroughly.

One drop is one too many

After the corner valves have been opened, you can try out whether everything works and is tight. All connections should be closely inspected for moisture – one drop is one too many, so dry thoroughly with a cloth before testing.

Finally, the joint between the wall and the washbasin is sealed with silicone . Use a finger moistened with washing-up liquid or a joint smoother for smoothing. Don’t forget the vertical joints on the sides.


If an old sink is unsightly, it must be replaced with a new one. Then, replacing a bathroom vanity sink should be done in the right order.

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